Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. Carry on along the track that goes nearly horizontally, keeping in parallel to the left-hand side moraine. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes.
Mind crevasses! Note the bolder with a cross image and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 for 20 to 30 minutes. Our Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth. The yurt is the place you can get a delicious meal, cup of tea or brewed coffee.
Listen to music, guitar playing, or use your PC to look through your photos or maybe even organize a party for a special occasion: completion of a successful assent, for instance! Out we go now to the Camp 1 - straight up and onward! First uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow 80m-long stretch, gradient degrees using fixed ropes or climbing in a zigzag.
Do not forget to stock your backpacks with sufficient amount of water and UV-protection cream factor 25 and higher! If you are a solo climber then you would better off finding a partner or hiring a guide for the day - we would certainly highly recommend this as over the years the snow cover situation on the slope has been changing dramatically, and not to the better.
Then, we carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope, traversing it towards the last upward swing before the top of Razdelnaya Peak 6,m, deep snow. For the last two years the Camp 3 6, m has been positioned just at the foot of the Razdelnaya Peak. The ascent normally takes about 5 to 6 hours. In case you feel nausea or suffer from a headache you should have appropriate the first-aid gear with you - you are at 6, m above sea level, you know!
Descent is carried out on the same way and takes less time and effort. You can reach Camp 1 in 4 to 5 hours and there plunge yourself back into the comfort of civilization: Internet, good food and a cup of brewed coffee or a can of fruit juice. The rule is: the lower the altitude, the faster and better restoration. After all, sleeping at a leafy green spot is far more pleasant.
Oh, Base Camp! Home sweet home for us after all these days in those cheerless, endless snow fields! Feel free to strip your clothes off and lie down in the grassy glade, breathing in the aromas of the alpine motley grass, bathing in the warming beams of the Asian sun…. The BC administration offers excellent vapor baths available daily in the afternoon. If only every day was an active rest day! By the way, the volley-ball pitch regularly houses international games that everyone may take part in!
Some participants play for specific Fancy a game? Today you have a great opportunity to walk around and explore the picturesque environment, making friends of the local marmots and snapping reams of envy inducing photos for the folks back home.
The divine bowl capsizing high above, the refreshing blue water gushed out spreading from green hills to lowlands, deluging all the carols and cavities of this landscape. You can even swim here now! Along the now well known path get to the Camp meet with its inhabitants and visit the yurt You need rest however so refresh yourself and restore your reserves of strength expended during the day.
Such a large number of like-minded people who can share your delight over the picture perfect surroundings. Early start at AM, the summit is waiting for you! Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau 6, - 7, m and finally continue on up to the summit.
And there we are - at the top! The whole of the Pamir lies at your feet!!!!!! Take a souvenir photo, a 20 to 30 minute break subject to good weather and set off downhill along the same path as before towards Camp 3. A good mountaineer is a mountaineer who stays alive and a plateau at 6,m can be exceptionally deceptive…Descend as fast as possible!
Good food in a warm yurt - bliss after such a gruelling ascent. A successful climb is the perfect excuse for a drink or two with your new found companions tonight. Camp 1 is famous as a venue for all the many mountain folks from different corners of the world meeting together under the same felt roofs - those who have just descended from the top and those who are about to start. The warm yurt is more than conducive to presenting an atmosphere of camaraderie There is but one pressing limitation unfortunately - time.
The yurt closes at PM as the superintendent marches up to send all present back to their tents, although perhaps for the best given many will be facing an all too early tart in the morning. Upon arrival why not have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your glorious return to BC.
Upon preliminary agreement your dinner could include a very nicely done hunk of lamb. Indulge yourself in oriental exotics!
This is the essence of the international culture of the nomadic peoples and what a culture it is. In the case that the weather was fine for you then feel free to use this reserve day for exploring Osh town.
Most likely a day to remember! Accommodation in hotel. Feel the charm of an almost forgotten civilisation. Walk around the town at night for a spot of quiet reflection. Full stop. All the adventures from the last few potentially harrowing days are over. Tomorrow your normal routine recommences but even amidst the daily grind there may well appear a new whisper within inevitably pulling your mind back to those events of the past summer.
Following above is our basic program of the ascent. By all means you are free to follow your own schedule based on your own understanding of the correct acclimatization for you, however the above is what we recommend.
For persons who would like to visit our Yurt cams just for spending the time according their preferences and without some mountaineering intention then no problem: being alone, or with your friends, or with your sweetheart, or with your family even including your children - you are welcome!
You also have unique chance to spend your vacations under foot of Lenin Peak, our special offer for you: " Vacation in the Pamirs " program! Services of mountain guide - USD 16 days. On your way to Osh, you will be driving across several provinces of Uzbekistan, namely Tashkent Province up to Kamchik Pass , Namangan Province and Andijan Province the last two belonging to the overpopulated Fergana Valley.
The highway runs amidst fertile fields of cotton, wheat and lucerne alfalfa along the Chatkal Range of the Tian Shan Mountain System. On the other side of the river 10km away is the town Almalyk - industrial hub of the province famous for its gold, copper, silver, zinc, lead, molybdenum and rare earth metal mines as well as the third largest factory in the former Soviet Union.
Stretching eastward the Kuraminsky Range becomes visible on the other side of the river, once covered extensively by juniper forests that were logged and produced into in charcoal for use in the thriving metallurgy industry of medieval times. Still in the valley, one can see remains of the old charcoal producing furnaces. Having past the town we stop for panoramic views of the coal mine. Having crossed the river on the bridge we enter Namangan Province.
The road zigzags uphill towards Kamchik Pass 2,m from where we descend to the Fergana Valley. Even in the heart of winter the traffic never stops. Two huge tunnels have been recently hewn from the rocky massif to protect the road against avalanches and landslides. The Fergana Valley is a real pearl of Uzbekistan.
It was here that thousand years ago ancient farmers were already growing grapes and lucerne - the plant cultures that were later to be cultivated and mastered by the people of the Chinese regions.
In ancient times a branch of the Great Silk Route once laid across the Fergana Valley leaving evidence of an extensive international cultural exchange: remains of Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Nestorian Christian temples and monasteries are scattered throughout the valley.
We then cross the Uzbekistan-Kyrgyzstan border. Formalities at Uzbek-Kygyz border usually do not take long and are generally problem free. On the Kyrgyz side of the border our transport is ready awaiting us, promptly transferring us to the scheduled hotel. You are accommodated in the same kind of comfortable base tents shared between 2 persons. The flight option is less picturesque than the drive but is significantly faster. Luggage allowance is 15 kg per passenger with an additional 0.
Flying with a local airline to Osh may take up to 1 hour and is very straightforward. You will be met at the Osh Airport and transferred to your hotel in town. Osh is a very warm, hospitable, compact and rather cosy town perfectly suited for night time strolls.
Suleiman Too Solomon Mountain is a popular tourist attraction with its 16th century Asaf-bin-Burhia Mausoleum, Prophet Solomon Mosque, Rabat Abdullakhan Mosque, thousand year old petroghlyphs and historical museum. Strolling along the Kurmanjan Datka Street you inevitably come across dozens of Kyrgyz, Russian and Uzbek cafes and restaurants in town where you can take your pick of the various local delicacies. Distance covered during the day: km. Step 1 : Departing from the Base Camp on the Edelweiss Meadow; traversing the Achik Tash River Valley crosswise; crossing the numerous broad branches of the Achik Tash River; approaching the foot of the grass-covered slope, on which we shall go up to the ridge.
Step 4: As soon as you reach the snow-and-ice portion of the slope, you must make rope teams if the guide regards it necessary to do so ; from this moment on you must set the pace by the weakest member of your group; all the members of the group must climb close to each other; as the team reaches Petrovsky Peak, all must stay together, no one is allowed to detach from the body of the group; the group may stay on the summit for 20 to 30 minutes, in case there is no wind; in windy weather people must not remain there for more than 10 minutes; climb the mountain in thunderstorm or snowfall is strictly prohibited.
Step 5: The group will descend the mountain along the same route as they climbed it; the descending technique consists in doing what you did when you were ascending, only in reverse order. Congratulations on your First Summit of the Pamirs!
Dear friends! Many of you ask us the same question: is it possible to join any combined group with a fixed date? Because, understandably, many of you would rather not climb the Lenin Peak alone!
Having someone with you sharing your happiness at the views witnessed from such unbelievable heights is something most people will agree is an excellent addition to a successful summit, something we've duly noted! In the Combined Group Option the dates for the arrival in the Base Camp from Osh and the departure from the Base Camp for Osh concerns all the members of a group; they are specified in the description of the option and depend on the combined group you belong to.
You can use additional service for an additional payment according to the price list. With this option you get all the often essential expertise of our guides without having to hire one individually and incur the relevant cost.
Furthermore you get the numerous benefits from good company with which to share all the joy and difficulties of the ascent with like minded mountaineers. After all having a positive and enjoyable experience has got to be near the top of the agenda! The starting point for the expedition to Lenin Peak is the city of Osh. This mountain rises right in the middle of the city and looks more spectacular against the background of busy city life, reminding the close proximity of its majestic brothers - the Pamir mountains.
Having left this hospitable city, the expedition members go over Chiirchik and Taldyk passes along the Pamir Highway the M41 to the village Sary Tash. There are three options for arriving at the Base Camp of Lenin Peak:. Recently new flights to Osh from Moscow and also from other cities of the CIS have been opened, as well as visa regime has been simplified, so the way of getting to Base Camp via Osh is the cheapest and most convenient one, as it allows saving your money and, most importantly, your time.
Via Bishkek capital city of Kyrgyzstan. Flying Bishkek to Osh note that your luggage allowance is 15 kilograms and excess weight is charged at EUR 0. Via Tashkent , the capital of Uzbekistan, and then by car for hours along the picturesque mountain Kamchik pass in the Fergana Valley. It is worth noting that the citizens of more than 80 countries have a visa-free regime for entering Uzbekistan more information about the visa to Uzbekistan can be found here.
Please note that upon arrival via Tashkent participants of expedition must have a foreign passport. Our Base Camp is situated in the alpine zone, on the Edelweiss Glade m , which is an ideal place for relaxation and full recovery after acclimatization hikes. This significantly increases the chances of a successful ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak. Attention to the participants from European and other foreign countries!
According to this law, the citizens of 44 countries from the list below have a right to enter Kyrgyzstan and stay on the territory of this republic without Kyrgyz visa during 60 days not longer.
The list of the states concerning which citizens the unilateral visa-free regime within 60 days is entered:. In order to issue this permit, it is necessary to send us the copy of your passport not later than 1 month before your arrival and point out planned period of your stay in the region of Lenin Peak. Each participant is fully responsible for their decision to participate in the program and bears complete responsibility for all their actions and all possible consequences of their participation in this extreme program.
Only under this condition, the rescue team is able to quickly start searching for a participant if the latter does not arrive at the stated point at the stated time.
Central Asia Travel is not responsible for the actions of participants, as well as for the consequences of their actions that took place outside the territory of Base Camp and Camp 1. It is necessary for the very extreme case which we do not feel like thinking about before travelling. However, common sense makes us to take care of it in order to feel really safe on the mountain, because the services of rescue team and emergency transportation are quite expensive.
The amount of an insurance policy must be not less than 20, US dollars, and you must obtain policy at home country before leaving for the expedition. A scanned copy of an individual insurance policy must be sent to us in advance, in the course of a preliminary correspondence. In addition, immediately upon arrival at the Base Camp, a copy of the insurance policy should be handed over to the Commandant.
Before applying for an insurance policy, please clarify with the insurance company what Assistant it works with. Kyrgyzstan has a visa-free regime with Russia and the CIS countries.
For Russian citizens, to travel around Kyrgyzstan, it is enough to have an internal passport. However, there may not be any special gourmet high altitude products in the range, so if you need something refined or special like freeze-dried meat , which you are used to, it is better to bring it with you. If you need more information about our Base Camp, additional services, route of ascending or if you have any questions, please contact us without hesitation, we will be happy to help you.
How do communications work at the foot of Lenin Peak? The assent route to Lenin Peak is not technically difficult , however, it is necessary to take into account such factors as extreme weather conditions weather can be completely unpredictable in the Pamirs and significant altitude.
A successful expedition requires good physical preparation , appropriate equipment and proper acclimatization. For reliable step-by-step acclimatization, it is recommended to make several radial exits to the height that at first will seem very severe headache, loss of appetite, lack of oxygen. Only when you adapt and feel good at high altitude you will be able to storm the peak.
At the same time, it is necessary to approach the all issues during the ascent in a balanced, rational, not emotional way, always follow the instructions of the guide and use common sense.
We advise you not to make solo ascents , but to find a good partner, join any group of mountaineers or use the services of an experienced high-altitude guide. Statistics data demonstrate that most accidents on the Mountain occur with solo climbers. Important : it is recommended to ascend to Camp 1 after acclimatization in the Base Camp m for at least 1 day. The Ascent to the Puteshestvennikov Pass m along a good, well-trodden track usually takes 1.
It is always windy on the pass and it can be covered with snow. The descent from the pass is not difficult and quite short. Further, the track becomes almost horizontal and stretches parallel to the left moraine dump for a long time.
We cross the turbulent mountain stream and go up to the track leading to the Lenin Glacier. It takes us about 2. We have to walk along the body of the glacier for quite short time - about minutes, skirting a few cracks on the way. Total ascent time from Base Camp to Camp 1: hours, depending on physical fitness and weather conditions.
Important: the transition from C1 to C2 is reasonably considered to be the most dangerous part of climbing avalanches, closed crevasses. Therefore, to start climbing this part you have to be the most prepared in order to minimize various risks.
It is recommended to ascend to Camp 2 after acclimatization in Camp 1 m for at least 1 day. One day in C1 should be devoted to practical training on technical safety on the glacier, check your equipment in action, work out interaction with a partner in a rope team when moving and resting, etc. We leave Camp 1 m and move along the glacier directly to the centre of the North Face , bypassing multiple crevasses, until the steep snow-covered ascent and then upwards to it 80 m, steepness 35 - 40 degrees using a fixed rope or zigzag walking.
Then we go up along the slope of the North Face. Important : regardless of the amount of snow and time of the day, this slope is an avalanche hazard zone , since an avalanche can be triggered by ice collapses. To minimize the risks of avalanche danger, it is recommended to start ascending from Camp 1 at 4. There are several safe places on the North Face for a longer rest, which will be shown to you by a guide or the head of rescue team directly on the spot.
In addition, an early exit will allow you to avoid long walking under the scorching sun, which is very exhausting on this part of the route. This traverse is extremely avalanche hazardous , therefore it is necessary to pass it as quickly as possible, avoiding any stops for rest, even for 5 minutes.
After the traverse of "Scovoroda", you will ascend along the talus slope up to Camp 2. Throughout this section of the route, it is recommended to move in a rope team, since on the way there are a lot of closed and open crevasses. From Camp 2 we go up along the slope 30 - 40 degrees onto the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks; there may be very strong wind on the ridge.
Then we move left along a gentle ridge to the steep ascent to the Razdelnaya Peak m. To ascend this summit you require to climb a slope of degrees walking through deep snow. In the area of the summit Camp 3 m is situated. The hardest part of the route is the steep ascent from 5, m to Camp 3.
In the upper part, from m to m, there are closed crevasses , be careful! While transiting from C2 to C3 mountaineers often do not climb in a rope team. We recommend you to move along the section from m to L3 in a rope team though.
From Camp 3, we will traverse Razdelnaya peak in a south-east direction and descend to the saddle. On the saddle there are several dangerous, mostly closed crevasses , so it is also desirable to pass this place in a rope team. From the saddle the climbers go up along the rocky steep ascent until reaching the ridge plateau.
Here, some teams prefer to set up intermediate Camp 4 m , but most climbers do not do it. Each team takes the decision whether to install Camp 4 on its own.
Strong wind gusts are possible here. It is recommended to pass this section using a rope, in crampons , because in case of falling, there is a danger of skidding off to the dumps on the North Face. Further, the path continues between the rocks along the ridge, then the mountaineers climb along the rock-snow steep section m long until reaching the snow plateau Parachuters m.
Passing through the snow plateau is hindered by deep snow. It is recommended to cross the plateau in clear weather and good visibility, checking with the GPS-navigator, since in case of poor visibility there is a danger of getting lost. Further you climb up the extended dome of the summit through the snow and scree which has access to the top of Lenin Peak where you will find the largest cairn laid of stones.
To descend you have to take the same route as to ascend. A very early start at 3 - 4 o? Important : the recommended time to start descending is - regardless of whether you have reached the summit or not. Please kindly note that due to glacier mobility, changes in relief and occurrence of new cracks, path to connect Camp 1 m and Camp 2 m and appropriate GPS-coordinates within this site may change from year to year.
Equipment to be used during the ascent of Lenin Peak 7, m Suggestions to select proper mountaineering equipment, clothes and footwear for the ascent. Our preparations for the ascent of a seven-thousander will include the selection of mountaineering equipment and outfit. Below we give detailed analysis and description of clothes, footwear and equipment you will need to have during the ascent of Lenin Peak :. You can see the cost of a set of products in our price list.
The set is packed in a bag. In your package you will see randomly selected combinations according to the weight or quantity requirements. We kindly ask you to be understanding if this happens. However, we would like to reassure you that this is an extremely rare case, since the delivery of products to the Base Camp is carried out on a regular basis and is strictly controlled. What are the minimal technical qualification requirements for climbing Lenin Peak?
Lenin Peak is not that technically difficult to climb. Still, you should have certain climbing experience. For instance, you should be able to move on snow-covered and ice-covered slopes of different gradients, use crampons and be fully aware of safety rules in the mountains.
In case you do not have any previous climbing experience we suggest that you book services of our mountain guide. Ascending along the standard route does not require any complex techniques but you should always take into account a risk of a possible quick change of weather and the general high-altitude environment so use your caution and common sense.
For me, it had been just three days since I had decided to join the expedition. Three days of furiously running around Bishkek to find all the necessary gear and getting my mind prepared for what would be one of the hardest things I had ever done.
Of the seven who set out on the expedition, just three left for the push to the summit, and only two of us remained on summit day deliberating at 6,m whether we should abandon our attempt.
Ultimately, the icy temperatures, blustery winds and a pair of quickly numbing feet thwarted our efforts and forced us to turn back. Even with a rigorous acclimatisation program, a clear weather window and all the determination we could muster, none of us succeeded. A sobering defeat. In our defence, the climbing season was not a good one.
The weather was horrendous and the chill of winter arrived particularly early. The vast majority of climbers we met, even the experienced, returned unsuccessful, some with frostbitten faces lucky to return with their lives. Climbing Peak Lenin is usually a 3-week endeavour involving multiple acclimatisation hikes and rest days before the final push for the summit to ensure your body is accustomed to the ever-rising altitude, somewhat used to the frigid cold and your mind is prepared for the gruelling ascent to the summit.
The snow-covered peak lies on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, but due to its easy access, the summit is almost always approached from the Kyrgyz side along the most common route, the NW Ridge. This will most likely be your first stop as part of any Lenin Peak expedition.
The first four days are spent at BC with various acclimation hikes up to around 4,m, to get your body ready for the first hike to Advanced Base Camp ABC. The infrastructure here is the best with warm water, showers, drop toilets and decent food. Luxuries compared to what is waiting further up the mountain so enjoy it while you can. The challenging km hike to ABC runs alongside the Lenin Glacier on a narrow path feeding through the sliding slope of loose scree.
The frightening drop toward the glacier below, the constant movement of rocks underfoot, the roar of meltwater trickling through the glacier and the echoes and groans of the moving ice make for an atmospheric hike.
This is also the site of the tragic mountaineering disaster with the avalanche wiping out the camp that sat vulnerable in the pan. The route from ABC is a treacherous one traversing the glacier with massive crevasses on either side.
Camp 3 is the final stop before attempting the summit. The way up from Camp 2 starts with an incredibly steep incline of loose ice and snow laced with rock followed by a gentle ridge that allows a chance to catch your breath before reaching what I like to call, The Wall, an even steeper slope carpeted with thigh-deep snow that will push you to your limits. The route is not far in distance but is extremely taxing with a slow and steady march interspersed with lengthy breaths the best approach to the challenging terrain and thinning air.
Atop the ridge, the Camp 3 is exposed on all sides which, on a clear day, offers the first spectacular glimpse of the majestic Pamirs and an unobstructed view toward the summit.
Equipped with smaller, high-altitude tents and no toilet facilities, as long as the weather holds firm, this is a far more pleasant spot than Camp 2. Perched further along the same ridge as Camp 3, Camp 4 sits just below the Knife, a perilous ridgeline with vertical drop-offs. Due to the altitude and precarious position, Camp 4 is rarely used with no fixed facilities. Summit day begins with a challenging climb up the steep ridgeline toward Camp 4 through deep snow that is as physically draining as it is mentally demanding.
Stumbling upward through the dark with just a circle of light and a clumsy string of footprints ahead, with every five steps requiring another ten laboured breaths, morale was at an all-time low. The full trip to the summit and down generally takes between 9 and 14 hours. We would only manage to walk 4 before having to turn back, defeated. There are a number of operators that offer expeditions up Lenin Peak, but not all have the same level of facilities, English-speaking guides or teams experienced with Lenin Peak and the route.
Ask questions about the experience of your guide — do they speak English, have they summited the mountain before and what is the guide to climber ratio; what facilities do they have available on the mountain; what is their reputation for safety etc. We went with one of the largest and most established operators in Kyrgyzstan, Ak-Sai Travel , and found that while generally they provided a good service for the expedition and certainly had the best mountain facilities, there were several areas that could do with some improvement on the trip.
You can book your spot on the exact same Lenin Peak Expedition here. Group sizes are limited to 10 people and there are just 7 excursions run every year between June and August. Check rates and availability for the next climbing season here. For experienced mountaineers, some of these may be no-brainers, but for the amateurs, they could very well help you get to the top and back. The season lasts from June to August.
The hiking season is short which means a lot of people trying to reach the summit in a limited space of time. June is generally busier with better weather, while towards the end of August there are fewer groups and the chance of less favourable weather, such as snowstorms, increases. We were the last group to attempt the summit in late August. Otherwise, you could manually setup its location on a map.
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